December 2, 2009
Thanksurfing Day 2009
As usual I had to go surfing on Thanksgiving Day, but this year there was actually some waves! Good news was there was waves, bad news was everybody and his 50 kids were out surfing. I paddled out to what I call spot number 3. I'm not going to tell you what spot number 3 is really called, cause you don't need to know. Anyways, waves weren't all that at spot number 3 but the crowd was mellow...at first. 15 minutes later I was surrounded by grommets and dingbats. Good thing I was wearing a leash I thought, best not to lose the board and get sued by some pissed-off buff dad.
Caught a nice little shoulder all the way into the inside when the thing bogged out and I jumped off the front of the board, only to have the leash stretch out and sling shot the nose straight to my face. Thought I knocked some teeth out, but the hit just moved some around. Touched my mouth and my hand was covered with blood.
Went ashore and asked Sasha if it looked bad, she said "yeah it looks bad". So we went to Urgent Care and they were closed for THXGVNG, then went to County Hospital and the line was out the door full of people coughing up lungs and other wet junk. Finally we arrived at PV Hospital and they gave me 3 stitches, no anesthesia. Was tons of fun. Then we went home and I tried to eat the feast with half a mouth. Better luck next year boys.